Ho Ho Ho! What a day! Santa delivered some super fun waves and a beautiful day! For once, we had very light winds too, normally, no matter what the wind direction is this time of year, it’s all windy and blowy (even when it’s hot). Read the rest of this entry
Category Archives: Surfing
Wind that Makes for Crazy Days (and How to Stop the Room From Spinning)

When the room starts spinning… get unspun! They both wanted ‘up’ so I put them in a wrap and spun them ’round and ’round
In October 2007, my husband and I spent a couple weeks in southern California for a surf contest, the USA Surfing Championships. (I’ll just casually mention that I won my division… ahem, 2007 Woman’s Longboard title…) But, what really set this trip apart from the others was the damn wind! Our first day there, I noticed everything looked bone dry. I said to Art, “Man, it looks like a tinder box here.” Two days later, a hot, dry and extremely strong wind called the Santa Ana winds started blowing and southern California was experiencing some of it’s worst wildfires ever. Lots of homes burned, lots of smoke that we breathed in… and some of the most epic, uncrowded waves I’ve ever surfed in southern California… like ever, dude… Read the rest of this entry
Big Waves and When You Just Have to Go In: Slightly Metaphorically Speaking
I wasn’t planning on going surfing! Art asked me about five hundred times today if I wanted to go, and I just kept saying that I would rather just go for a quick swim while he took Margo to the playground. Read the rest of this entry
Swearing in the Ocean and Something that Gave Me Goosebumps!
The waves were really good today at Rainbow Bay. Somehow it ended up that I got to surf twice! Woohoo! My first session was more like a ‘surf session fail’. I decided to not wear a leash AND I was wearing a hat AND the waves were way bigger than I thought AND it was really crowded. Read the rest of this entry